We explore a new concept in perfumery: upcycling, the reuse of waste materials or ingredients to create a new, higher quality product.
It is a trend already known in the fashion industry, where brands such as Maison Martin Margiela and Balenciaga have made it their hallmark, and a long way to go in perfumery.
Brands and perfumers have been researching for years, trying to give ingredients a second life. We are talking about a concept closely linked to conscious consumption and sustainability, a way to avoid wasting ingredients sometimes very precious and scarce. The circular economy has gained many followers in recent years and has helped develop creative and extremely interesting ideas and products.
It is about reducing waste by giving it a second chance to create something new and better. This can involve reusing previously distilled ingredients or researching the possibilities of discarded food for consumption. This contributes to de develop the perfume and cosmetics industry and opens a new world of possibilities for experts to create, imagine and test. Upcycling also promotes sustainable growth for brands that are committed to a sustainable future.
In this trend, the bond between the food and perfume industries is strong, as both strive to reduce waste and the impact on the environment through creativity. Hence, waste destined to make compost or destroyed is now being revalued, that is the case of fruit for example. Another recycled material in perfumery is sawdust and oak wood from the manufacture of liquor barrels. As well as turmeric leaves from International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), a company that has transformed these leaves, normally discarded, into an extract that can be used in the olfactory pyramid of fragrances.
All this brings new scents that under the expert nose of a perfumer can completely transform a perfume.
Some interesting examples of upcycling in the world of perfumery…
I am Trash - Les Fleurs du Déchet by État Libre d'Orange
Created with re-used ingredients that are considered waste. In fact, the very name of the perfume evokes those elements that were destined to be discarded but that the perfumer reused giving them a second chance to create a new and extremely surprising fragrance.
Angel Nova by Thierry Mugler
In this fragrance, previously distilled roses are used to create a new ingredient. The result is a combination of upcycling and biotechnology, a process developed specifically for the brand that makes it possible to enjoy a new scent. Mugler, always a pioneer in the field of perfumery, was one of the first brands to use upcycling.
Nina by Nina Ricci
In this case, the legendary fragrance has been adapted and is currently vegan containing 90% of natural grown ingredients. The upcycled lemon stands out, coming exclusively from fruit discarded by the agri-food trade for not meeting the established criteria in terms of size or appearance.