Dried fruits in perfumes to welcome autumn

Attractive, tasty, sometimes sensual, sometimes comforting. Fragrances with gourmand touches make us feel good, comforted. They awaken memories and pleasant sensations that dwell in our olfactory memory and are therefore always welcome.

The revolution that perfumery underwent in the 20th century, giving rise to new synthetic molecules, catapulted the gourmand trend, giving rise to an endless number of sweet fragrances. Sugar and caramel were the protagonists of the sweetest scents.
Today, we are experiencing a resurgence of this trend, but in a new light, thanks to innovation and the revolution brought about by new, hitherto unknown molecules of natural origin. The palette of perfumers is surprisingly expanding, introducing new olfactory twists which, in the case of the gourmand family, move away from the more obvious sugary accords to explore new notes around milk, cereals, fruits and nuts, to name but a few examples.
Perfumers and experts agree that we are at an exciting moment in perfumery from which new olfactory icons will emerge.

Perfumers recognise that the creative possibilities brought about by innovations in new extracts are changing the olfactory landscape of perfumery. For example, dsm-firmenich has the Supercritical Fluid Extraction Collection, which provides 100% natural and responsible extracts, such as dried fruit notes.
In the case of Mane, Jungle Essence technology makes it possible to capture the smells and flavours of different raw materials, such as fruits and nuts, which can then be recreated at industrial production levels. An example of this is Hazelnut Neo Jungle EssenceTM. The same technology that the company has used to develop the new fragrances of the Mezel brand, a niche brand that links two cultures of countries with strong perfume roots, Morocco and France.

For its part, Mane, the French company specialising in the creation of fragrances and aromas, is heavily involved in the study of the link between smell and taste. This was evident at the last Pitti Fragranze fair, with its exhibition The New Gourmandise: from taste to fragrance, and at the Global Taste and Smell Sumit, an event in which the company invited attendees to reflect on the connected senses through multi-sensory experiences created by perfumers and flavourists. Mane experts aim to understand the impact of smell and taste sensations on our emotions and their influence on wellbeing and mental health.

In its less sweet version, bitter almond adds a distinctive note to Carolina Herrera's Good Girl Blush, a delicate reinterpretation of the original fragrance with just the right amount of sweetness, thanks to vanilla.
The sumptuousness of Jimmy Choo's I Want You Le Parfum is highlighted by a blend of florals, woody notes and a praline accord.
And in Bright Intense by Pepe Jeans, we find praline surrounded by musks and tonka bean that enhance its intensity with powdery nuances.

Hazelnut replaces the candied citrus accord in the new version of Devotion Eau de Parfum Intense by Dolce & Gabbana, taking us on an olfactory journey to Italy and its delights with a comforting new twist.
The emblematic chestnut note of This is Her! by Zadig & Voltaire blends in the new This is Her! Unchained with a powdery floral trail and notes of red fruits and citrus, adding a touch of juiciness.

We cannot overlook pistachio, a nut that has won over consumers since D.S. & Durga included the Pistachio fragrance in its 2022 collection.
Pistachio brings a refined, toasty, vanilla sweetness and a creamy, almost earthy touch, sometimes with green and sometimes even citrus undertones. It can be reminiscent of local desserts that have become internationalised such as baklava and macaron, but has also become popular in ice creams, coffees and cocktails. Its profile is smooth and complements sweet notes very well.
In Yum Pistachio Gelato by Kayali Fragrances, Sebástien Cresp explains that he had total freedom to create a pistachio gelato. "I am happy to say that it is the best seller," admits the perfumer who has certainly connected with one of the olfactory trends of the moment.