Caroline is an extraordinary young woman. Fascinated by ancient civilizations, particularly Asian and African, her roots are not part of her DNA She bears within her the history of half periods, an attraction to languages and religions that are unfamiliar to her. And when it comes to perfume, she harbors numerous secrets about the mythical ingredients of unusual formulas: “I am a product of the culture of northern France, an educated, cultivated, simple France. But I love North Africa and Asia I have always been drawn to North Africa, its culture, cuisine, religion, literature and history, the warmth of the people, the sense of family, its intensely human side. I married a Tunisian and live in Tunisia in the summer. I am learning Arabic and I’m also researching China and Japan. These are my real roots".

Caroline’s method of creation reflects her ambition. Creating a formula is a way of traveling through perfume history, of projecting the past into the future: “I work with history. It’s what I do every day in, day out". And that takes her on beautiful journeys leading to wonderful, quintessentially 21 st century perfumes, which, like her, are emotionally intense, perfumes that are rooted in the distant past yet seemingly magically updated. They involve a lot of planning, a certain vision of old formulas and a great deal of research to find the delta, the contemporary formula: “I have a vivid recollection of Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant a floral fragrance, a lily of the valley, aldehyde scent that made a big impression on me. So I thought, why not follow it up? I like the notes because they are linked to a memory Recently, I combined aldehydes for a Comme des Garçons perfume, Théâtre du Chatelet Acte I with a rose oxide top note, then an intense note slightly reminiscent of firecrackers and aldehydes".

And it is the notion of “over the top” that encapsulates the single minded, effervescent Caroline: “I love adding an extra dose I always like to try to exaggerate certain things It must be the way I am I always put my heart and soul into things I’m impulsive, I have a strong character". And her mastery of the extravagant shows through in the very beautiful Chlorophyll Gardenia for Comme des Garçons, with its intense gardenia and its marked green note at the start. Caroline’s first great triumph was Sweet for Lolita Lempicka in collaboration with Anne, and her second scent, Pure XS with Anne and Bruno from an initial idea of mine, an aldehyde ginger combination fused with a really sensual, warm vanilla ground. Both feature excessive doses.

Caroline ends by offering up one of her paradoxes: “I personally like intimate perfumes I keep coming back to White Musk and I’ve worn L’Eau des Merveilles a beautiful, luminous chypre. At the same time, I like smelling great powerful perfumes like Coriander Aromatics Elixir and Opium on other people I’m a fan of woody, spicy, sensual fragrances. I like dark perfumes with animalic notes, but I can’t wear them I am a bit schizophrenic, yet at the same time this dialogue with yourself, this endless curiosity that leads you to explore new territories is a form of happiness".
©Michael Avedon

The fragrances of Caroline Dumur

AROMATIC FOUGERE
Bon Parfumeur | Les Classiques

106 ROSE DAMASCENA ROSE DAVANA VANILLE

FLORAL
Headspace

SAUGE

AROMATIC FOUGERE

Ingredients of choice

Lavender

Geranium

Juniper Berries

Patchouli

Vanilla

Sandalwood

Neroli

Musk

Bergamot

Rose

Clary Sage

Vetiver

Tonka Bean

Cedarwood

Grapefruit

Davana

Rose Damascena

Papyrus

Balsam (Peru)

Pink Pepper

Ambrette Seed

Jasmine

Black Pepper

Cypress

Heliotrope

Angelica

Cumin

Cypriol / Nagarmota

Incense / Olibanum

Chamomile

Seaweed / Algae

Orchid

Kumquat

Woody Ambery Accord

Blood Orange

Pear

Pineapple

Almond

Mandarin

Tuberose

Lemon

Ambergris

Ginger

Anise

Basil

Everlasting Flower

Blackcurrant Bud

Caraway

Fennel Seeds

Dates

The perfumes that captivate you and the ingredients that brings them to life shape your olfactory profile. Here you can develop it. And because scents reveal your essence, you'll receive recommendations that fit your olfactory personality like a glove.

Sign up to save your searches, findings and our recommendations.