FLORAL

Type
Natural raw material
Parts used
Rhizomes
Extraction method
Steam distillation and solvent Extraction

Woody-green, powdery, soft, floral, refined, close to the scent of the violet, warm and persistent.

Best paired with violet or intoxicating mimosa, iris is a somewhat subtle, soft and sensual note. A high-brow note reserved for only the finest accords perfumery has to offer, iris is renowned for its steep price tag. In fact, iris could well be the priciest ingredient in a perfumer’s arsenal. And for good reason: its floral, powdery facets lend an unmatched elegance and air to fragrances.

Production

Though native to the Far East, iris is predominately grown in Italy and Morocco today. Absolute iris comes from a volatile solvent extraction of crushed roots. This process starts after three years of growth, when the roots are peeled, washed and dried in the sun or an oven at a moderate temperature, while the rhizomes are processed all year, dried in an oven at 40-degrees for two years. They take on a violet scent thanks to ketones called irones. In the next step, they are crushed and steam-distilled to create iris butter, sometimes also referred to as concrete. With such a lengthy, complicated extraction process and low-yield, the high prices are understandable, with the Iris Padilla variety fetching more than 100,000 euros-per-kilogram! The yield of crushed rhizomes accounts for 0.2-0.4%. Absolute is created when the fatty acids are eliminated through the purification process.
Photo by courtesy of IFF (LMRNaturals) and Gregorie Mahler
Photo by courtesy of IFF (LMRNaturals) and Gregorie Mahler
Iconic perfume
Chanel
Nº 19 (Eau de Parfum)

Henri Robert, responding to an order from Coco Chanel, delivers a composition with a personality as powerful as that of N ° 5. In a completely different olfactory register: a powdery green iris revived by galbanum, with unequaled and timeless elegance.

FLORAL / GREEN

History

The iris has a rich history throughout different cultures. In Greek mythology, Iris was the messenger to the Gods, most notably to Hera, Zeus' wife, who adored Iris for always bringing her good news. Iris took the form of a graceful young girl embellished with brightly colored wings displaying the colors of the rainbow. To mortals, she actually appeared in the form of a rainbow as she delivered them their divine messages. It is Iris' association with rainbows that earned them the poetic nickname Scarf of Iris. The iris flower itself played a role in Egyptian mythology as it was linked to the gods Osiris and Horus. There is even an iris engraved into the foreheads of the Egyptian sphinxes to represent Horus.
Photo by courtesy of IFF (LMRNaturals) and Gregorie Mahler

Did you know

Powdered rhizomes are used both in talcum powder and face powders.
The iris derives its rich scent from containing a large quantity of irones, the scent of violet. This fragrance is said to have a positive effect on behavior. The flower's petals change texture and shimmer, thus inspiring the word iridescent.

Some fragrances related to the ingredient

Acqua di Parma

ACQUA NOBILE IRIS

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Escentric Molecules

MOLECULE 01 + IRIS

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Acqua di Parma

IRIS NOBILE SUBLIME

WOODY / FLORAL
Guerlain | L'Art et La Matière

IRIS TORRÉFIÉ (2021)

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
The Harmonist

ROYAL EARTH

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Hermès | Hermèssence

MUSC PALLIDA ESSENCE DE PARFUM

FLORAL / MUSK SKIN
FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Guerlain | Les Légendaires

L'INITIAL

FLORAL / CITRUS
FLORAL
Guerlain | Les Parisiennes

L'INITIAL

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / CITRUS
Bulgari | Splendida

PATCHOULI TENTATION

WOODY / CITRUS
Guerlain | L'Art et La Matière

MUSC OUTREBLANC

FLORAL / MUSK SKIN

Musk

Bergamot

Sandalwood

Patchouli

Amber

Vanilla

Jasmine

Cedarwood

Rose

Mandarin

Vetiver

Lemon

Tonka Bean

Orange Blossom

Pink Pepper

Grapefruit

Woody Notes

Leather

Incense / Olibanum

Violet

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