SPICY

Type
Natural raw material
Parts used
Cloves (dried flowers)
Extraction method
Steam distillation

Spicy, floral, carnation.

A rich, spicy and floral note, reminiscent of carnation and most commonly used in men’s fragrances to give a warm and sweetly aromatic quality to complex accords. Clove is particularly popular for its deep, woody tones that blend beautifully in fragrances of bergamot, citrus, lavender, earthy geranium, musk, rose or ylang-ylang.

Production

Cloves derive from a tropical plant that grows in the warm, temperate climates of the Molucca Islands, Madagascar, Indonesia, the Philippines and Tanzania. Before the trees’ flowers are able to bloom, the buds are hand-picked and steam distilled before being dried in the sun for three days. It is during this drying process that the buds turn from a pinkish color to their characteristically dark shade. However, the clove essence that can be found in warm, sweet accords is obtained through a process of distillation using the trees’ leaves.
Origin
Indonesia, madagascar, philippines, united republic of tanzania
Iconic perfume
Estée Lauder
YOUTH DEW

This fragrance, originally designed for a bath oil, has excited American women with its powerful spicy accord, clove and cinnamon, which enhances the floral heart and spices up the very persistent balsamic base of benzoin.

Estée Lauder

YOUTH DEW

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / SPICY

History

Despite its small size, the clove has made quite an impact: inspiring cuisines and fragrances for centuries. During the 16th century, the Portuguese, Dutch and British battled to obtain the coveted clove in a heated struggle to dominate the spice trade. However, the impact of cloves far precedes European colonialism. During the Han dynasty, the Emperor’s entourage were made to chew cloves as a breath freshener when bowing before the Emperor. In the Middle Ages, cloves became a panacea: used in the treatment of fever, forgetfulness, deafness, sexual dysfunction, and senility. And during the black plague, doctors were known to tie a clove-filled pouch over their noses to purify the air, while dentists would use the spice to treat toothache.
The clove is wonderfully versatile: spicing cakes, flavoring candies, adding a spicy kick to cigarettes, curries, marinades and wines. But beyond its fragrant and culinary talents, the clove is a gifted antiseptic and analgesic, and is used in dental treatments to cure toothache, for example. On average, a single clove tree can produce two kilograms of the spice per year (thus accounting for its rather costly price tag).

Some fragrances related to the ingredient

Estée Lauder

YOUTH DEW

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / SPICY
Prada | Infusions

INFUSION D'OEILLET

FLORAL / SPICY
Estée Lauder

CINNABAR

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / SPICY
Estée Lauder

SPELLBOUND

FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Dunhill London

DUNHILL EDITION

AROMATIC FOUGERE / SPICY
Dana

CANOÉ

AROMATIC FOUGERE
AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / FLORAL
Karl Lagerfeld

LAGERFELD CLASSIC

WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Malin & Goetz

LEATHER

LEATHER / GREEN
Guerlain | L'Art et La Matière

ÉPICÉ VOLÉES (ARSÈNE LUPIN VOYOU)

WOODY
Memoize London

CARITAS

AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
AROMATIC FOUGERE / SPICY
L'Occitane | 86 Champs Collection

BOIS DE CÈDRE CÉDRAT / CEDAR WOOD CEDRAT

CITRUS
AROMATIC FOUGERE
Le Labo

LIMETTE 37

CITRUS
AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / CITRUS
Jean-Michel Duriez

W/OOD MUSK

WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Avant-Garden Lab

M.O.U.S.S.E

CHYPRE / FLORAL
WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)

Musk

Bergamot

Sandalwood

Patchouli

Amber

Vanilla

Jasmine

Cedarwood

Rose

Mandarin

Vetiver

Lemon

Tonka Bean

Orange Blossom

Iris / Orris

Cardamom

Pink Pepper

Lavender

Grapefruit

Woody Notes

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