AMBERY (ORIENTAL)

Type
Natural raw material
Parts used
Leaves, branches and resin
Extraction method
Solvent extraction

Warm, spicy, amber, balsamic, floral scent, with woody and dry accents.

The crème de la crème of perfumery, ciste labdanum is an ever-so-spicy and amber-like resin adored by perfumers and fragrance wearers alike. Sometimes interpreted as having slight leathery or honey-like nuances with hints of plum, ciste labdanum is revered for its powerfully complex qualities. Hints of floral undertones and deeply warm facets make this resin a popular note in ambery fragrances.

Production

Native to the rocky, mountainous regions of the Middle East and the Mediterranean coast, the labdanum cistus is a shrub ornamented with delicate pink and white flowers. Today, the bushes are common to all Mediterranean countries, but cistus branches are only harvested in Spain and Morocco. However, the decorative flowers are not the focal point for perfumers. Rather, it is the strongly scented gum secreted from the leaves’ follicles in the heat of summer that excites fragrance connoisseurs. Labdanum branches are hydro-distilled to obtain the coveted essence, and the resinoid and absolute are obtained through extraction using volatile solvents.
Origin
Spain, morocco, portugal
Iconic perfume
Chanel
COCO (Eau de Parfum)

Created by Jacques Polge in 1984, Coco is a tribute to Coco Chanel. “For Coco, I wanted an “anti-floral”, in order to find the other side of the Chanel style: this baroque and contradictory streak, which Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles or Sycomore had developed over the 20s.” For Chanel, “This perfume inaugurates a new olfactory generation. A lush oriental symphony which gradually reveals its contrasting notes. "

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / FLORAL

History

Labdanum has long been cherished for its medicinal and fragrant properties. Its deep aroma was even credited with having the ability to ward off evil spirits; dabbing a bit on the wrist was thought to keep the mal-intended spectres at bay. In ancient Egypt and Carthage, shepherds would comb goats and sheep to collect the resin that had gathered in their fur, forming a ball-like shape known as “amber ball”. Aside from its obvious desirability as a fragrance, labdanum has antiseptic and astringent properties and has been used to treat bronchial conditions, as well as skin conditions such as scrofulous. Its scent influences sensitivity and artistic learnings, and its myriad of benefits is thought to also include enhancing optimism and positive thinking.

Did you know

With deeply fragrant notes of warm amber, light tobacco and sensual, animal facets daring close to leather, it is no wonder that the resinous substance obtained from unrefined cistus shrubs is so highly sought after. The decadent resin is formed naturally, as a protective measure to keep the plant hydrated against the harsh sun.

Some fragrances related to the ingredient

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AMBRE SULTAN

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AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / FLORAL

Musk

Bergamot

Sandalwood

Patchouli

Amber

Vanilla

Jasmine

Cedarwood

Rose

Mandarin

Vetiver

Lemon

Tonka Bean

Iris / Orris

Orange Blossom

Cardamom

Pink Pepper

Lavender

Grapefruit

Woody Notes

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