ALDEHYDIC

Type
Synthetic molecules
Extraction method
Chemical reaction

Metallic, clean and warm linen, laundry, gas, cold.

Aldehydes amplify the fragrant harmony of an olfactory experience. Often associated with floral notes, aldehydes work to reveal the nuances of each scent for a deeper, fuller, elevated fragrance.

Production

Aldehydes can be sourced from the extracts of rose and citrus fruits, but in minute quantities. As a result, synthetic aldehydes are created.
Iconic perfume
Chanel
Nº 5 (Eau de Parfum)

"A woman's perfume, with a woman's scent... A perfume unlike any have ever made." This was Gabrielle Chanel's request to Ernest Beaux. The perfumer worked on new molecules: aldehydes, very difficult to dose, which amplify the floral character, and give diffusion to the entire structure of the perfume. Chanel N ° 5 is the first of a great line of floral aldehydic fragrances.

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC

History

The term "aldehyde" is a unique combination of the words "alcohol" and "dehydrogenatus," originally coined by chemist Auguste George Darzens. A Russian-born French organic chemist, Darzens first discovered aldehydes in 1903 when he synthesized C-12 Mna. Later, Blaise isolated aldehydes C8, C9, C10, C11 and C12 lauric. At first, aldehydes were left largely untouched by the perfume industry, who found the new scents to be rather lacking. The odd-numbered aldehydes (C9 and C11) give a fragrance similar to the burnt wax of an extinguished candle, despite being sourced from rose essence. The even-numbered aldehydes fare no better, which, despite being sourced from citrus-fruit grind and having an arguably clear and bright scent, were considered "metallic" at the time. And yet, the métier of Darzens’ aldehydes would be be revealed when it was discovered that the chemical compound could actually enhancethe other scented ingredients of a perfume. When subtly used and skilfully dosed, the synthetic molecules have the ability to reveal and enhance a fragrance.

Did you know

While aldehydes are naturally present in rose and citrus fruit extracts, the quantities are rather lacking. To bolster supply, synthetic aldehydes are created in the laboratory.
While aldehydes C12 and C-12 Mna offer very similar fragrances, they are unmistakably different to the trained nose of a perfume connoisseur. Evoking a bouquet of floral accents, waxy or soapy notes, and an amalgamation of ginger, citrus fruit and laurel fragrance, both variations conjure notes typical of aldehydes. The iconic and dashingly chic Chanel No.5—first developed in 1921—was the lovechild of a unique combination: a dash of aldehyde and a rich bouquet of vibrant florals.

Some fragrances related to the ingredient

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Clean | Reserve

WHITE AMBER & WARM COTTON

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Paco Rabanne

CALANDRE

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Serge Lutens | Matin Lutens

L'EAU SERGE LUTENS

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Chanel | Les Exclusifs

Nº 22 (Extrait)

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
O Boticário

FREE HUGS

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Floris | Ledgers

FLORISSA ENCORE

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Cyzone

DANCING

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Hugo Boss | Boss

BOSS ORANGE WOMAN : SUNSET

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Roja | Semi-Bespoke

SEMI-BESPOKE NO. 22

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Alysonoldoini

BUCATO ROYALE

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Yohji Yamamoto

UNRAVEL 07|14

FLORAL / MUSK SKIN
The Different Company

PURE EVE (PURE VIRGIN)

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Elizabeth Arden

GREEN TEA

CITRUS
FLORAL / WATERY
Andrea Maack

CRAFT

FLORAL / WATERY
Clean | Classic

CLEAN PURE SOAP

AROMATIC FOUGERE

Musk

Bergamot

Sandalwood

Patchouli

Amber

Vanilla

Jasmine

Cedarwood

Rose

Mandarin

Vetiver

Lemon

Tonka Bean

Orange Blossom

Iris / Orris

Cardamom

Pink Pepper

Lavender

Grapefruit

Woody Notes

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