What are gourmand perfumes and why is everyone talking about them?

The evolution of gourmand perfumes towards new olfactory territories, less linked to desserts, plays with healthier concepts that allow us to discover unusually appetising fragrances. We invite you to discover them.

Although we are so familiar with sweet notes that they seem to have always been on the perfumer's palette, it was not until the early 20th century that perfumery experienced the gourmand revolution with the new synthetic molecules. To name just a few of the most common, we have benzaldehyde, which smells of bitter almond and cherry; vanillin and ethyl vanillin, which smell, you guessed it, of vanilla; ionone and methyl ionone, which smell of violet candy; and the famous ethyl maltol (used ad nauseam in recent years), which is reminiscent of candyfloss.


It was in 1992 that the gourmand perfume trend was inaugurated with the launch of Mugler's Angel, a fragrance created by perfumer Olivier Cresp, who combined a very high dose of ethyl maltol, vanilla and patchouli to create a sweet fragrance with caramel and praline overtones that was highly addictive. From this moment on, sweet accords began to become popular in olfactory creations with different twists and winks to a young public that was just starting out in perfumery.

Fruits have also entered the gourmand terrain, allowing us to feel their most gustatory facet. Two representative fragrances: apples in DKNY's Be Delicious and Nina Ricci's Nina, appetizing and tempting. Melon and mandarin are juicy and refreshing in Polo Blue by Ralph Lauren. The pear note with vanilla in La Belle by Jean Paul Gaultier is tasty and soft. Pineapple gives a special character to Aventus by Creed and Pineapple by Dolce & Gabbana. The red fruits of Sì by Giorgio Armani are very appetising. And black cherry, the star of Tom Ford's Lost Cherry, has become a noble ingredient, thanks to perfumer Louise Turner.

Perfumery has tapped into the gourmand side of not only fresh fruits, but also dried fruits. Jérôme di Marino points to one of his works as an example of this type of more sophisticated fragrance: "I am very fond of a perfume I developed for the brand Une Nuit Nomade, called Jardins de Misfah, inspired by an Omani dessert with almonds, dates, honey…".


There are more examples, such as the toasted almond note of Almond by The Library of Fragrance and Perfect Intense by Marc Jacobs. Or the sweeter version of this nut, the caramelised almond found in Lolita Lempicka's Eau de Parfum Original.

Candyfloss, clouds, liquorice, caramel… give rise to sweetened, delicious and addictive perfumes.


Flowers and sugar clouds make Ariana Grande's Sweet Like Candy a sweet and fun scent. But there are also perfumistic exercises that, without leaving aside the gourmand side, transport us to more solemn territories such as Legacy of Petra, by Penhaligon's, which combines myrrh, liquorice and vanilla. And let's not forget caramel, which bursts forth sweet and chic in Prada's famous Candy fragrance, to cite just one example.

Desserts and pastries adorn the most appetising olfactory compositions that we can enjoy without sugar rush remorse.


Dolce & Gabbana invites us to taste an Italian panettone in Devotion; Jean Paul Gaultier introduces an almost edible meringue note in Divine; Ferragamo evokes a tiramisu in Uomo; and Viva la Juicy Sucré, by Juicy Couture, recreates a creamy, smooth, frosted cupcake. The decoration of the bottle leaves no room for doubt…

At the top of the gourmand ingredients in perfumery, vanilla, tonka bean, praline, cocoa, honey and coffee are some of the most aspirational scents in the luxury and niche category.


Let's start with a pioneering perfume, Guerlain's Shalimar, one of the first to use a large amount of vanilla, a universal ingredient in perfumery and a favourite in all parts of the world.


Coming back to the present day, the vanilla trio on which Burberry Goddess, by Amandine Clerc Marie, is built, allows us to enjoy new olfactory facets. "My initial goal for Burberry Goddess was to expand the common use of vanilla to offer a new kind of olfactory experience. To do this, I used three different types of vanilla extraction. The first is a Vanilla Infusion, which provides the brightest, woodiest vanilla possible. Then I used Firgood™, also known as Vanilla Caviar, for the first time in a fragrance. This innovative new ingredient adds a sweet, rich, animalic vanilla. Finally, the Vanilla Absolute is darker and more intense, enhancing the fragrance with a mysterious, milky aspect," explains the perfumer.


The coffee note can be found in woody, toasty and even liqueur-like nuances: in Tom Ford's Café Rose, it feels like a sensual and refined mist combining rose and coffee; while in YSL's Black Opium, it is addictive and excessive; and in Akro's Awake, perfumer Olivier Cresp achieves a concentrate of energy.

Perfumery does not close the door to other ingredients outside the confectionery sphere. Popcorn, chewing gum, cola and even the humble milk become exceptional notes in fragrances with a lot of personality.


This is the case of Pure XS for Her by Rabanne with an explosive popcorn note; Toy 2 Bubble Gum by Moschino with a bubble gum note; Tonka Cola by Mancera, which expresses the fast pace of big cities and pop culture with a fizzy cola note; and Milk by Commodity, a creamy and soft fragrance with a base of cold milk, woods and resins that recalls the nostalgia of autumn days.

Gourmand perfumes continue to evolve into new olfactory territories. New technologies for extracting natural ingredients, which allow for more vivid and realistic fragrances, are giving perfumers a boost to their creativity.



For example, tomato has been featured in a line of home fragrances by Loewe and beetroot is present in Malin & Goetz's Rogue X Kith. In L'Artisan Perfumeaur, Tonka Blanc combines tonka bean and cauliflower to recreate the recipe for a vegan cheesecake. And the simple pumpkin is the star of Pumpkin Pie by Fragrance Library.