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Olfactory families

Learn about the characteristics of each olfactory family and their possible combinations.

The perfumes from the Hesperidian or Citrus family, sometimes called "Eaux Fraiches", are characterized by their freshness and lightness. This olfactory family also comprises the first "Eaux de Cologne". The name "Eau de Cologne" refers to a fresh and invigorating fragrance composed of bergamot, neroli, lemon and rosemary created in Italy in the 17th century, but it owes its name to the city of Cologne, Germany, where it became popular at the end of the 18th century. Fresh perfumes consist mainly of citrus essences (bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, grapefruit) which are associated with the orange notes (orange blossom, petitgrain, neroli).

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The Aromatic family, also called Fougère in perfume jargon because of the fragrance Fougère Royale, created in 1884, which was the first evoking this natural, undergrowth smell.

Initially composed of lavender, oakmoss, coumarin and bergamot, this family evolved using a lot of different aromatic plant such as basil, sage, rosemary, thyme, etc.

As this kind of fragrance was used a lot in the 80’s for masculine barber products, it is associated with the masculine world, transmitting an energetic and clean sexiness.

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Essential in perfumery, the Floral family is comprised of an incredible diversity of scented flowers that provide an air of nobility, delicacy and richness to fragrances.



We are, of course, familiar with rose and jasmine whose use is ancestral.
Orange blossom, however, provides more freshness and has nuances that are reminiscent of neroli. White flowers, such as tuberose, ylang-ylang or gardenia, are sensual and intoxicating. If we are seeking the most delicate and light flowers, we needn’t look any further than lily of the valley or freesia. Violet and mimosa surprise us with their powdered and velvety notes. Finally, one of the spiciest flowers is the carnation, which develops clove accents.



Today, the technology known as the "headspace technique" allows perfumers to capture the protected olfactory molecules of plants in a vacuum environment. Thanks to this technique, new floral notes are discovered every year.

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The Woody family is as rich and multifaceted as the Floral family.

Sandalwood—creamy, velvety and milky—has a warm, reassuring and opulent character when it comes to Woody fragrances.

Cedarwood, on the other hand, features a dry note that’s reminiscent of sawmills and pencils. Meanwhile, vetiver roots provide an elegant and qualitative tone with its wet accents of grapefruit and smoked scents. Finally, oud wood—strong and animal-like—evokes a powerful and sensual scent.

The research of synthetic molecules has expanded the perfumer’s palette with the development of interesting woody notes, enhancing natural notes and bringing about new, dry, creamy or powerful and vibrant effects."

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Back in 1917, when Francois Coty created ‘Chypre’, a perfume featuring bergamot, floral notes, patchouli, oak moss and labdanum, he invented a structured accord that would go on to inspire decades of perfumers. The ‘Chypre’ family was born! Nowadays, chypre fragrances are experiencing a tremendous success in perfumery, reinterpreting this timeless construction with modernity.

Oakmoss tends to disappear from contemporary creations, but they keep their characteristic citrus and floral notes enhanced with patchouli that gives off an incredible trail and diffusion to the fragrances!

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The ambery scents possibly refer to the very old use of ambergris, a substance ejected into the sea by the sperm whale, which is today rarely used because of its steep price. This raw material, in association with vanilla, has marked perfumes such as Ambre Antique by Coty, or even Amber 83, a perfumed base by De Laire, thus giving birth to a new olfactory family.

The Oriental term appeared shortly after, in association with the scents of the East, and designates a heady, voluptuous, warm and captivating composition. It describes warm, mellow, rich and heady raw materials originating from the East, such as sandalwood, patchouli leaves, vetiver roots, spices, resins and balms (benzoin, incense…). Rich in base notes, it can easily be recognized by its particularly strong warm and heady trail.

Ambery and oriental fragrances borrow the same softness from vanilla, Tonka beans, cistus labdanum, evoking the mystery of resins, the exotic escape provided by spices and the tasty evocations of gourmand notes.

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Rich, reassuring, smoky, burnt wood, tar, powerful, enveloping, dry, striking… It is quite an unusual formula for the leather family, an approach to perfumery that is rather different to what people are used to in general. With dry or sometimes very dry notes, it tries to reproduce the smoky odor of leather (with burnt wood, birch…), the softness of the styrax, or the velvety touch of a suede (with saffron…).

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