Perfumes with soothing sandalwood notes

"On the edge of Australia's western desert, sandalwood trees, revered by local communities for centuries, stand under a relentless sun.

When they develop their precious oil, they are cut into fine chips which travel across the globe to Oman, where their transformative power infuses the perfume concentrate. It's a time-sensitive process, but in their own way, these wood chips know how to wait." This is how Amouage describes the slow art of extracting the perfect sandalwood essence.

Creamy, milky (a leading note in the milky notes trend), gentle and comforting, sandalwood now enchants fragrances of every style: from niche and unisex creations to global launches that win hearts everywhere.

Sandalwood: when time becomes fragrance

More than just a prized timber, sandalwood (Santalum) is a keeper of time: its scent endures for decades, making it a treasured element since antiquity.

Because the trees mature slowly, and centuries of overharvesting once placed them at risk, sandalwood has become protected, spurring the use of alternatives like Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum). Today it remains essential in perfumery, often supplemented with sustainable synthetic versions developed through green chemistry that help ease pressure on forests.

"Sandalwood, aloe wood and frankincense resin: these founding aromas have left such an ancient and profound imprint on perfumery that they have become almost mythical," writes Dominique Roques in The Essence Seeker.

Found in Hinduism, Buddhism, and Islam alike, sandalwood has been used for centuries in religious, medicinal, and artisanal rituals. In India especially, it permeates daily life – in perfumes, soaps and ointments that evoke purity and a connection to the divine.

The alchemy of sandalwood

Its spell lies in santalols, the molecules responsible for its creamy, milky, and sweet-woody signature. In small amounts, they help stabilize volatile notes and soften the overall blend.

"Its ability to combine with other woods in a masculine scent, leading strength and texture to the woody accord, or in a feminine one, to extend the floral bouquet thanks to the creaminess the sandalwood brings, makes it truly unique. The supporting notes determine which facet of sandalwood will show," explains Gregorio Sola, senior perfumer and creative director of Puig, and holder of the Sandalwood Chair at the Academy of Perfume in Spain.

"At Amouage we use around 700 ingredients and 30 different natural woods; sandalwood is one of them. It can come from Mysore, though we also source much from Australia," says Renaud Salmon, Chief Creative Officer of Amouage.

He adds that traceability and collaboration with trusted suppliers are key to safeguarding sustainability.

"Its ability to combine with other woods in a masculine perfume, adding strength and texture, or prolonging the floral bouquet in a feminine perfume, makes sandalwood a unique ingredient," explains perfumer Gregorio Sola.

How sandalwood essential oil is obtained

Sandalwood is harvested when the trees are 25 to 30 years old, once the heartwood is richly developed and aromatic (especially in alpha- and beta-santalol). In Australia the growth cycle is somewhat shorter, though no trees are harvested 15 years of age.

As with all natural raw materials, the origin, cultivation, and processing methods determine quality: younger wood yields a more milky-toned extract. Uniquely among many trees, sandalwood roots are also used, as they concentrate much of the fragrance.

After cutting, only the heartwood (dark, dense wood) is retained; the sapwood (lighter) is removed. The heartwood is chipped, dried and steam-distilled, releasing the aromatic compounds that yield a pale amber oil – creamy, balsamic and long-lasting.

"We transform the wood into small shavings and incorporate about 5% into the perfume concentrate. Before blending with ethanol, we let it infuse for six months. After filtering out the shavings and dust, the concentrate is already enriched with sandalwood essence," explains Salmon regarding Amouage's The Essences line.

At Amouage, nothing goes to waste: "It's precious wood, the last thing you want to do is throw it away," adds Salmon. The remaining shavings are reused as bukhoor, aromatic chips burned in the Middle East to scent interiors.

The scent of calm

Sandalwood is experiencing a renaissance as people seek wellbeing and emotional balance. Its sacred legacy fits perfectly with the growing interest in fragrances that invite introspection, calm, and inner connection.

"In contemporary scents, sandalwood brings character, texture and lasting depth. It's a very powerful wood, yet it combines beautifully with floral, aromatic, vanilla, and amber notes," says Gregorio Sola.

If you love sandalwood, savour its warm embrace in perfumes such as…

Chanel Bois des Îles, a pioneer in placing sandalwood center stage.

Guerlain Samsara, a tribute to this raw material, paired with jasmine.

Hermès Santal Massoïa, where sandalwood from New Caledonia meets massoia from New Guinea.

Le Labo Santal 33, a modern icon with Australian sandalwood, cardamom, iris, violet, cedar, and leather.

Diptyque Tam Dao, inspired by sacred Vietnamese forests, it combines sandalwood creaminess with cypress and myrtle.

Acqua di Parma Sandalo, an opulent blend of sandalwood with bergamot and cardamom.

Tom Ford Santal Blush, exotic and spicy, with ylang-ylang, cinnamon, and sandalwood.

Carolina Herrera Sandal Ruby, a passionate mix of tuberose, milk, and sandalwood.

Amouage The Essences, a double infusion of sandalwood matured in oak barrels.

Trudon Mystique, with ancestral essences of oud and sandalwood.