The value of essential oils
Flowers, leaves, wood, fruits and roots provide perfumery with highly prized essences that enrich and enhance the sensoriality of fragrances.
The industry is currently facing uncertainty in Europe about the new classification of essential oils as toxic substances, a move that the industry does not fully understand, as it is already working with stringent safety protocols throughout the value chain.
What is happening in Europe with essential oils?
The new CSS (Chemical Strategy for Sustainability) and the revision of the CLP (Classification, Labelling and Packaging) Regulation in Europe calls into question the REACH reports. Europe is debating whether to incorporate new restrictions that would affect essential oils that will be considered as MOCS (more than one substance) instead of NCS (complex natural substances).
Nuria Cruelles, perfumer at Loewe, has chosen rockrose as the distinctive note of the brand's new line of perfumes (image courtesy of the Perfume Academy).
Rockrose essential oil, the sophistication of ancestry
Citrus fruits and aromatic herbs such as lavender are crops of interest for the production of essential oils. Last June, the Spanish Perfume Academy convened the sector in a round table to share knowledge and concerns about such valuable ingredients for high perfumery.
One of the main ingredients of the day was the rockrose, a wild plant highly appreciated by perfumers, which is harvested in central and southern Spain. The harvesting of the rockrose -jara pringosa or Cistus Ladanifer- keeps the forests clean and activates the economy of depopulated areas.
Harvesting is still done by hand with a sickle to avoid damaging the rest of the vegetation with machinery, but it has been optimised thanks to mapping. This work is beneficial for the forests as it removes vegetation that is highly flammable. Moreover, it is carried out in a sustainable manner, as the harvesting fields are rotated and the whole plant is never exhausted in the harvesting process. The essential oil of rockrose is obtained by steam distillation, a traditional method that does not involve chemicals and maintains the naturalness of the product.
The fragrance of rockrose, which is highly appreciated by high perfumery, is woody, balsamic, with sweet nuances and a touch of leather, almost animalic, which gives intensity and character to the perfumes that contain it, as well as fixation and sensuality.
"It is an ingredient that grows wild and is difficult to master, but it has great richness and complexity, brings different olfactory nuances and is an indigenous ingredient with centuries of history. It is so special that I have chosen it as the protagonist of my future creations", explains perfumer Nuria Cruelles, who has chosen rockrose to give an ambery, deep and woody character to the new Loewe Aire Anthesis perfume, which inaugurates a new line of fragrances from the brand that will share this ingredient as a common olfactory identity.
Pitti Fragranze takes place on 15-17 September in Florence.
Pitti Fragranze awaits you in September
The Pitti Fraganze signature perfumery fair awaits you on 15, 16 and 17 September at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. At its next event, the programme invites us to reflect on the meaning of true beauty, connected to the cosmos since antiquity. Inspiring perfumers, workshops and world-renowned brands await you at the next edition of Pitti Fragranze.
Today, niche or signature perfumery is experiencing a golden moment, as more and more consumers are being seduced by olfactory proposals with their own character, far removed from the dictates of marketing and with high quality standards.
Exclusive, handcrafted, personalised, these are attributes of signature perfumery, highly appreciated by consumers who want to feel special and vibrate with a different storytelling, inspired by art, nature and history.
Prada Paradoxe reinvents iconic perfumery ingredients such as neroli and jasmine, which are fused with a chord of Ambrofix™ and Serenolide™, creating a vibrant warmth. Hermès explores new territory where freshness and strength meet through citron, juniper berries and mineral and woody accords in Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrèe EDP.
Award-winning fragrances
The Fragrance Foundation has presented its annual awardsfor the best fragrances of the year in New York. Prada Paradoxe by Prada and Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée by Hermès won in the Prestige category, while Grabrielle Chanel Chanel Parfum Spray by Chanel and Noir Extreme Parfum by Tom Ford were honoured in the Luxury category.
Here is a look at the list of winners for the 2023 edition of the Fifi Awards:
Prestige Women's Fragrance of the Year: Prada Paradoxe Eau de Parfum, Prada (L'Oréal, Givaudan). Perfumers: Nadège Le Garlantezec, Shyamala Maisondieu & Antoine Maisondieu.
Prestige Men's Fragrance of the Year: Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrèe EDP, Hermès (Shiseido). Perfumer: Christine Nagel.
Fragrance of the year for women Luxury: Gabrielle Chanel Parfum Spray, Chanel (Chanel). Perfumer: Olivier Polge.
Men's Fragrance of the Year Prestige: Noir Extreme Parfum, Tom Ford (Estée Lauder Companies). Perfumer: Sonia Constant.
Universal Prestige Fragrance of the Year: When The Rain Stops, Maison Margiela Replica (L'Oréal, IFF). Perfumer: Fanny Bal.
Universal Luxury Fragrance of the Year: The Alchemist's Garden Tears From The Moon EDP, Gucci (Coty, DSM-Firmenich). Perfumer: Alberto Morillas.
Popular Fragrance of the Year: Golden Nectar EDP, Nest New York (Givaudan). Perfumer: Caroline Sabas.
Extraordinary Perfume: Gris Charnel Extrait de Parfum, BDK Parfums (Mane). Perfumer: Mathilde Bijaoui.
Indie Fragrance of the Year: Opus XIV Royal Tobacco, Amouage (Amouage). Perfumer: Cecile Zarokian.
Fragrance Innovation: Aroma Heart, Veronique Gabai (DSM-Firmenich). Perfumers: Isabelle Sognoz & Frank Voelkl.
Fragrance Hall of Fame: Flowerbomb EDP, Viktor & Rolf (L'Oréal, IFF). Perfumers: Olivier Polge, Carlos Benaïm & Domititille Bertier.
Men's and universal fragrance Consumer Choice: Polo Blue Parfum, Ralph Lauren (L'Oréal, IFF). Perfumers: Carlos Benaïm & Pascal Gaurin.
Luxury women's fragrance Consumer Choice: Prada Paradoxe EDP, Prada (L'Oréal, Givaudan). Perfumers: Nadège Le Garlantezec, Shyamala Maisondieu & Antoine Maisondieu.
Popular Consumer Choice women's fragrance: Eilish No.2, Billie Eilish (Parlux, Takasago). Perfumers: Catherine Selig.
Candle & Homme Collection Consumer Choice: Himalayan Salt & Rosewater, Nest New York (Robertet). Perfumer: Jérôme Epinette.
Packaging of the Year Prestige Popular: Le Beau, Jean Paul Gaultier (Puig).
Luxury Packaging of the Year: Loubimar, Christian Louboutin Beauty (Puig & Christian Louboutin).
Best campaign of the year: Invictus, Paco Rabanne (Puig).
