Florence once again became the world's perfume capital at Pitti Fragranze 2025, held from September 12 to 14 at Stazione Leopolda. The fair brought together more than 250 brands, demonstrating why artistic perfumery remains one of the most dynamic and vibrant categories, blending olfactory innovation, fashion, art and science.
Under the theme "Composition", the fair showcased unique fragrances and skincare rituals that explore new dimensions of sensory well-being.
Key trends at Pitti Fragranze
- Gourmand reinvented, with unexpected notes of milk, creamy rice, dulce de leche and a boom in cherry.
- Musk in the spotlight, presented in multiple variations.
- Rising Asian influence, marked by the debut of Japan's Setchu and the growing presence of Korean brands such as Saranghaeyo and Born to Stand Out.
Among the most talked-about launches were Lübu by Sora Dora, inspired by the smoke of Armenian paper; Rouge Rebel by Vertus, a cherry, vanilla and chocolate gourmand; and Ultra by Hiram Green, a 100% natural green floral.
Pitti Fragranze confirmed that artistic perfumery is increasingly oriented toward individuality, where every scent expresses identity, mood, and cultural narrative.
Pitti Fragranze 2025 underlined the surge of gourmands with unexpected ingredients, the prominence of musk, and the growing impact of Asian creativity.
dsm-firmenich introduces emotiOn™: a fragrance designed to foster human connection
dsm-firmenich unveiled emotiOn™, the first fragrance scientifically proven to encourage social interaction, the result of over 30 years of neuroscience research conducted with leading academic institutions.
In today's hyper-connected yet solitary world, according to the New Next Now global barometer, 75% of consumers link their well-being to social relationships, more than half of Generation Z report feeling lonely, and 61% believe fragrances can help combat loneliness.
Using AI, a database of more than 40,000 tested fragrances, and human-behaviour studies in social settings, emotiOn™ offers perfumers new guidelines to create scents that promote genuine human connection.
Initio Parfums Privés harnesses neuroscience to elevate the customer experience
French niche house Initio Parfums Privés introduced the Feel Lab Experience in its Parisian boutique, an innovative concept combining fragrance, neuroscience, and artificial intelligence. Using an electroencephalography (EEG) headset, visitors can track their emotional responses to a perfume in real time.
Developed with Feel'Tech by Micropole, BrainCo, and the Harvard Innovation Lab, the experience is set to expand internationally. This initiative strengthens Initio's vision of perfume as an immersive emotional medium, following its partnership with dsm-firmenich to explore the link between scent molecules and emotions.
The Sprecher Berrier Group, parent company of Initio and Parfums de Marly, closed 2025 with retail sales of $775 million (+41%). Initio itself grew by 50% to $189 million, and with Patrice Béliard taking over as CEO on October 1st, the brand aims to consolidate its leadership by uniting luxury, innovation, and science.
A Scented Journey: Carlos Benaïm's half-century in perfumery
With more than 50 years of experience and over 300 fragrances to his name, perfumer Carlos Benaïm shares his life and creative journey for the first time in A Scented Journey, written with journalist and perfume expert Denyse Beaulieu and published by Nez Editions.
The book follows Benaïm's olfactory memories through cities such as Tangiers, Paris, New York, Rio, Buenos Aires, and Amsterdam, turning personal recollections into universal perfumes.
"One of my greatest joys has been not only recreating these scents that are inextricably linked to me, but also pouring these drops of memory into bottles, transforming the intimate into the universal," says Benaïm.
Among his celebrated creations are Polo by Ralph Lauren, Libre by Yves Saint Laurent (with Anne Flipo); Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf; and exclusive works such as Eau de Magnolia and Music for a While for Frédéric Malle.