Highlights February 2025

According to Circana data, the perfume sector has experienced double-digit growth in markets such as the United States, Spain, the United Kingdom, and Italy. Moreover, it has been the category with the highest increase in value.

"Although the beauty market continues to grow, the pace of expansion has slowed. However, fragrances continue to outperform most other categories, which greatly benefits Coty, as they represent more than 60% of our revenue and an even greater share of our profits," revealed Sue Nabi, CEO of Coty. It is worth noting that the company has recently launched the first premium fragrance collection from Jil Sander, Olfactory Series 1, an exercise in reinterpreting haute perfumery through simplicity and innovation.
In the case of Puig–which has achieved record revenues with a turnover of 4.790 billion euros–the Fragrances and Fashion division reported a 13.6% increase in revenue. In addition, the group achieved the milestone of positioning Carolina Herrera's Good Girl as the best-selling women's fragrance in the United States (second worldwide). Puig also recorded double-digit growth for its niche brands L'Artisan Parfumeur, Penhaligon's, and Dries Van Noten.

L'Oréal closed 2024 with a 5% increase in global figures, with luxury division growth reaching 4.5%, further strengthening its global leadership. The fragrance category received a significant boost thanks to successes such as Prada's Paradoxe, Valentino's Born in Roma, and Yves Saint Laurent's Libre in women's perfumery, as well as Armani's Stronger with You, Azzaro's Wanted, Ralph Lauren's Polo 67, and Yves Saint Laurent's MYSLF in the men's segment.
In addition, the French beauty multinational is betting on perfumes with strategic operations such as acquiring the Miu Miu license in 2024 and its recent investment in Amouage. 2025 is set to be just as dynamic, following the announcement of Jacquemus joining its brand portfolio and its participation in the niche Korean perfume brand Borntostandout.

Amouage's growth has been remarkable. The Omani niche perfume house saw a 30% increase in 2024, supported by its artisanal and local values while focusing on international expansion, which could receive a new boost thanks to L'Oréal's support.
Meanwhile, the strong performance of Interparfums brands (Lacoste, Jimmy Choo, Montblanc, Coach, and Van Cleef & Arpels) translated into a solid 10.3% growth, which is expected to be surpassed in 2025 when the company launches its own niche perfume brand, Solferino.

Can robotics connect with the world of perfumery? Visitors at Esxence discovered the answer with ScentDia, a robotic sculpture that integrates an olfactory dimension for the first time, fostering human-robot interaction and redefining the social role of these technological devices.
Innovation, science and tradition were key elements at the Master of Dreams exhibition, held in Milan from February 19 to 22, honoring master perfumers–visionaries capable of transforming dreams into olfactory realities.
"For our fifteenth anniversary, we have prepared an edition full of innovations, research, and culture: a unique event that combines scent, art and innovation in a true alchemical synesthesia, offering visitors and fragrance enthusiasts a place to discover a world made of dreams, transformed into reality by master perfumers through extraordinary creations," said Cavezzali.
In addition to a comprehensive showcase of brands and fragrance companies, this event dedicated to niche perfumery offered an engaging program with various presentations and expert panels discussing the power of sensory experiences in human connections and the psychology of scent.

Small formats are on the rise, registering higher growth than other sizes. They are particularly attractive to Gen Z consumers, who lean towards miniatures and travel-size fragrances.
The fair gathered 378 brands from 36 countries, spanning 16,000 square meters, and featured two exhibitions: Bergamot of Reggio Calabria. A sensory journey into the olfactory treasure of Made in Italy, organized by the Accademia del Profumo; and an exhibition of the most emblematic fragrances from the 1920s, curated by the International Perfume Conservatory L'Osmothèque.

Without severing ties with Givaudan, Louise Turner will become the in-house perfumer for Caron, thanks to an agreement between the two companies. Renowned for her ability to craft olfactory stories, Turner takes on the challenge of designing new perfumes for this haute perfumery brand with over 120 years of history.
"Working with Caron is a dream come true! This partnership not only fuels my passion for fragrance creation, but also opens the door to a new wave of creativity. Together, we will merge tradition with innovation, creating scents that resonate with the heart and soul of the house, while pushing the boundaries of what is possible in perfumery," said Turner.
Trained in medicine, Turner took a different path when she discovered the world of perfumery, falling in love with the craft. Since 2000, she has been part of Givaudan, where she has built a stellar career.
Her English origins and the gardens of Kent have shaped her work, allowing her to skillfully blend floral notes to evoke deep emotions. Now, her collaboration with Caron will challenge her to explore new creative horizons, combining tradition with modernity.