The startup Osmo, led by neuroscientist Alex Wiltschko, has taken a decisive step in transforming the olfactory universe with the launch of Generation, the first fragrance house created with olfactory intelligence.
This platform uses generative artificial intelligence to turn text and images into unique scent formulas, making it possible to design more sustainable, safer and more accessible fragrances, even for independent brands.
"Generation can predict and create entirely new molecules that have never been smelled before, that are more sustainable and that solve problems existing materials cannot address, such as toxicity and safety," says Alex Wiltschko, the company's founder and CEO.
Founded in 2023 with backing from Lux Capital and Google Ventures, Osmo combines data science, neuroscience, and chemistry to digitise smell. Its mission: to democratise access to perfumery and create new scent molecules that meet today's safety, regulatory and sustainability challenges.
With Generation, the company promises to shorten development times, reduce environmental impact, and open a new era for the global fragrance industry. Accelerating the creation of new perfumes more efficiently will mean more time to devote to the creative process, the company explains.
We spoke to Alex Wiltschko and Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer at Osmo, to learn more about the advances Generation now offers.
"With Generation we are creating fragrances for everyone, on a large scale. We are building a factory capable of producing a new batch of fragrance every 60 seconds," says Alex Wiltschko, founder and CEO of Osmo.
Perfumery has historically been an art dominated by perfumers with years of experience. How have perfumers reacted to working alongside AI? Do they worry that their role will be diminished?
Christophe Laudamiel. AI is already changing the way we create. But great perfumers, like great architects or chefs, will always be in demand.
AI improves, accelerates, and refines, but it does not replace intuition, artistry, or the ability to create something deeply human. Instead, it eliminates blind spots and optimises formulas.
AI can verify that a fragrance is not simply a repetition of something that already exists. It can find molecular shortcuts that replace five, six or even more traditional ingredients with a single high-performance one. Magic happens when machines and human noses work together.
The perfumer's role is only becoming more powerful with this new set of tools that Generation is providing.
In the medium term, what level of development do you expect to achieve with Generation?
Alex Wiltschko. We have completed our first chapter. We have formed a team and managed to digitise the smell in the lab.
The next chapter is Generation. We are creating fragrances for anyone, on a large scale. We are building a factory capable of producing a new batch of fragrance every 60 seconds robotically.
Generation will bring fragrance design and production to as many companies and individuals as possible. We will design and create the scent memories of the next century.
We also know that the digitising smell has numerous implications for human health and well-being, from detecting diseases and harmful environmental chemicals to developing repellents against harmful insects.
While Generation's work in fragrance remains our top priority for now, we know that as we continue to optimise our technology, both with Generation and at Osmo, and expand our body of research, we will open doors that could change the future of human health and well-being forever.
One of the great challenges in the world of fragrances is the precise reproduction of certain natural aromas. Do you think olfactory intelligence will make it possible to recreate aromas lost to history?
Alex Wiltschko. One of the most powerful aspects of OI (olfactory intelligence) is its ability to map and understand smell at a fundamental level. This means we can recreate the olfactory experience of fragrances that people once loved, but can no longer smell, whether due to discontinued ingredients, regulatory changes, or lost formulas.
However, Generation is not focused on making imitations. Instead, we use this ability to reimagine these fragrances in a way that remains true to their essence, while applying new ingredients and technology to bring them back in a modern and sustainable way.
Fragrances of the past: the power of perfume in Egypt and Greece
When we think of the legacy of the great civilisations of the ancient world, we often think of towering pyramids and temples. But the sense of smell also played a fundamental role in the cultural experience of these peoples. In both Egypt and Greece, scents were not only symbols of status, but also vehicles of spirituality and art. Thanks to new archaeological research, we now know that perfume permeated the daily life of these civilisations, from the embalming of the dead to the veneration of the gods through perfumed statues.
In Ancient Egypt, smell was an essential part of death rituals. A study led by the University of Ljubljana and University College London revealed the surprising 'aromatic palette' of nine mummies stored in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
Using non-invasive techniques such as mass spectrometry and gas chromatography, researchers identified woody, spicy, and sweet aromas, as well as traces of incense, flowers, and black tea. These scents come both from the original mummification ingredients (such as resins, waxes, and oils) and later treatments. Far from the myth of a stench of decay, Egyptian mummies evoked a fragrant aura, reflecting the status and rituals of those who were carefully prepared for eternity.
Another recent study showed how Greek sculptures were infused with fragrances. According to research published in the Oxford Journal of Archaeology by Danish archaeologist Cecilie Brøns, statues of gods and illustrious figures were adorned not only with colours and jewels, but also with perfumed oils.
Texts by classical authors such as Cicero, Callimachus, and Pausanias document practices like ganosis, which involved applying mixtures of waxes and perfumes to sculptures, providing not only protection and shine, but also an immersive olfactory experience in religious or ceremonial contexts.
"It's fantastic when, as a researcher, you discover something new that brings us closer to the people of the past. What was it like to live in ancient Greece or Rome? Here, the senses can offer something completely unique, as it is an immediate way of 'getting in touch' with the past. Smell, in particular, has a great influence on people's behaviour, social interactions, and can greatly affect the experience of the sculptures," explains Cecilie Brøns.
The sculptures were meant to resemble living people and scent was a way to make them feel more real, the archaeologist adds. What might these statues have smelled like? According to Brøns, roses were widespread throughout the Mediterranean region and written sources mention how to make rose essence, so this would very likely have been a recurring fragrance.
Greek sculptures were meant to resemble living people and scent was a way to make them feel more real, the archaeologist adds explains archaeologist Cecilie Brøns.
Grasse in bloom: May's Rose Festival
Every spring, the city of Grasse, known as the world's perfume capital, celebrates one of its most emblematic flowers: the rose. During the Rose Festival, ExpoRose, this charming town on the French Riviera transforms into a sensory garden full of scents, colours, and floral art.
The 53rd edition will take place from May 8 to 11, 2025, under the theme of "Artistic Vibrations". The event will showcase more than 25,000 cut roses, 8,500 bouquets, and 13,000 rose bushes decorating fountains, streets, and squares. The atmosphere will be brought to life with shows, music, workshops, and exhibitions dedicated to floral art and perfume.
In addition to the floral installations, the festival features a lively market where visitors can buy rosebushes, artisanal products made from roses, ranging from jams to cosmetics. It is also a perfect opportunity to discover the secrets of traditional Grasse perfumery, an industry with centuries of history.
ExpoRose not only celebrates the beauty of this flower but also local craftsmanship and creativity that define Grasse. It is an event that unites nature, art, and tradition, making Grasse an unmissable destination for lovers of flowers, fragrance, and Provençal culture.