Alcohol-free perfume is not new; however, it is gaining in prominence. In addition to the versatile body mists, ideal for the summer, solid sticks, summery and alcohol-free editions and, of course, delicate children's fragrances, alcohol-free olfactory compositions are on the increase and are suitable for everyone.
Experts suggest that the push for alcohol-free fragranced formulas may be influenced by the skinification trend (incorporation of facial care techniques and ingredients into hair care, body care and make-up). However, one of the reasons for the proliferation of alcohol-free scented waters is innovation, as the number of patents with new molecules that allow alcohol-free fragrances to be formulated has increased in recent years. For example, less than a year ago, Mane introduced AquafineTM , an alcohol-free formula that encapsulates the fragrance molecules in small droplets, resulting in a transparent emulsion with a high concentration of perfume. It is also biodegradable, an increasingly important factor for consumers. More recently, Cosmo International Fragrances unveiled at In-Cosmetics Global 2024, one of the most important trade fairs for the beauty and fragrance industry, an alcohol-free formula, AquaElixirTM, developed with skin-friendly, high sensory performance green technology.
Is alcohol-free perfume for you?
Alcohol-free perfumes are for everyone, but if you have sensitive skin, they can certainly be an interesting option for your everyday life, as their formula is milder than traditional fragrances.
As you know, perfumes usually use an alcoholic solution to dissolve the essential oils and the different ingredients that make up the fragrance. Alcohol is a substance that can cause skin dryness and sometimes irritation. With a water base, these drawbacks are avoided.
What is the base of alcohol-free perfumes?
Until recently, there were two options to replace alcohol: a water base or a base of natural oils to dilute the perfume ingredients. Now, new molecules developed by fragrance laboratories are opening up the range of possibilities and offer more advantages to optimise formulas.
How does the olfactory experience of a perfume with alcohol differ from that of a perfume without alcohol?
Alcohol-free perfumes offer a different olfactory experience than traditional fragrances. Generally, the formula is perceived as more natural, although it loses freshness and gains in softness. It is also more linear and less persistent. This is because alcohol amplifies the evaporation curve of the ingredients.
Alcohol-free formulas are perceived as skin-friendly and can be sprayed more intensively all over the body and even on the hair, as they do not dry it out. It is a more holistic way of enjoying perfume as a product that provides well-being and care.
Alcohol-free perfumes offer a different olfactory experience from traditional fragrances.
Mild, alcohol-free perfumes
Indie brands have embraced the alternative to alcohol in perfumery as a way to offer consumers a new, gentler, more skin-friendly and environmentally friendly way of perfuming. This is the case of Clean Beauty Collective with the Clean Reserve H2Eau collection, which is based on a development that the Japanese fragrance company Takasago presented ten years ago and which has taken years to perfect. The Clean Beauty proposition is a gentle, moisturising and long-lasting perfume experience. The line consists of eight fragrances inspired by the ocean and made with a water base using Hydro-Tec technology, which has had to overcome major regulatory and technical challenges to ensure the stability and preservation of the formulas.
The Water Brand was born in 2021, when its founder Audrey Limbioul decided that there could be another way to enjoy perfume after seeing how in the Middle East there is a great perfume culture without the need for alcohol. It currently has three references: Bossa Wood, Tropica and Rebel Tonka.
The fascination of Anne-Claire Walch, a specialist in pharmacology, for the natural aromas of Provence led to the creation of the Brûmée brand, whose DNA is alcohol-free, vegan, certified natural formulas made with locally sourced natural ingredients. The result is an essence that perfumes skin and hair in a respectful way.
"Fragrances have always been at the centre of my life, helping me to feel in control of who I am and my environment. From my home, to nostalgic memories, to my own energy and connection with others, scent has been an escape for me. This is how supermodel Bella Hadid explains her interest in perfume. From this love of fragrance comes her own brand, Orebella, a perfumery brand that explores the concept of moisturising, alcohol-free fragrances rich in essential oils.
The first thing that is striking about Orebella's perfumes (developed with the participation of dsm-firmenich and Robertet) is that they are biphasic, due to the blend of oils and ingredients. They are based on Ôrelixir, a proprietary blend of moisturising ingredients and five moisturising, nourishing and aromatherapy-enhancing essential oils (camellia, almond, olive, jojoba and shea) that give the scent longevity and help it last all day long. At the moment, the brand has three perfumes: Blooming Fire, Window 2 Soul and Salted Muse.
Successful fragrances alcohol-free version
Not only do we find alcohol-free fragrances in firms that have that purpose in their philosophy, but there are also alcohol-free proposals in brands that work their formulas in a traditional way. This is the case of Byredo, which has just launched an alcohol-free version of Mojave Ghost, with a water-based formula that reinterprets the original fragrance, lighter, but long-lasting and very pleasant on the skin. Ideal for use in summer and comforting for any occasion.
Dior also surprised in 2022 with a variety of its best-seller J'Adore, formulated without alcohol with a concentrate of water and flowers that leaves behind a natural and generous trail of a floral bouquet. The brand reinvents a bouquet of white flowers featuring neroli, jasmine and magnolia.
Designed as an alternative to traditional perfume, Goutal's line of alcohol-free waters perfume skin and hair with pampering and are perfect for use on sunny days. It is available for the fragrances L'Île au Thé, Rose Pompon and Petite Chérie.
Guerlain also goes alcohol-free with a version of La Petite Robe Noir L'Eau Rose Eau de Parfum, the brand's first such perfume. It is made up of 92% natural ingredients and has been developed to provide a refreshing and moisturising sensation, thanks to an innovative formula based on Damascus rose water, which will only be available for a limited time for the moment.
Have you tried alcohol-free perfume? What do you feel about this type of composition?