Smooth, warm and decadently sweet—the scent of vanilla is easily one of the most recognizable notes in perfumery. It is widely used in ambery accords, as it pairs lovingly with notes of warmth and sensuality. It is soft and delicately spicy, with animalic facets.
The decadent scent of vanilla derives from the vanilla bean plant (Vanilla planifolia), which is native to Mexico. Today, vanilla is mostly grown in Indonesia, Madagascar, Mexico, the Comoro Islands, Tahiti and China. It is said that the vanilla pods only emit their perfume after having “sweated” for months under woolen cloths. As their aroma wafts and mellows, vanilla crystals begin to form—creating the fragrance we know and love. A process of extraction using volatile solvents produces the concrete, absolute and resinoid.
The Aztecs had an affinity for a number of decadent ingredients, including vanilla, and used the sweet spice to flavor cocoa beverages. The delights of Mexican vanilla were introduced to Europe and its colonies in the 15th century. It would take another three centuries before vanilla made its way to the Indian Ocean, Madagascar, the Reunion Island and the Comoros.
People's Republic of China, Comoros, Madagascar, Mexico
When first introduced to Madagascar, the insect responsible for pollinating the vanilla bean plant was not present. As a result, pollination was done by hand by women known as “matchmakers.” Vanillin is the natural aroma that develops in vanilla pods during its processing as a spice. It is divinely fragrant, with a scent similar to vanilla and a taste that evokes vanilla sugar. Better yet, vanillin can be manufactured at a comparably low price: a kilo of whole vanilla pods is worth around €1,000; a kilo of vanilla powder is worth €400; and a kilo of liquid artificial vanilla flavor will cost a feeble €45. Synthetic vanillin is identical to the molecule found in vanilla pods—from complexity and richness to its natural aroma.
The most beautiful tribute to Shalimar is undoubtedly the one made by Ernest Beaux, Creator of Chanel N ° 5, who exclaimed: "With this packet of vanilla, I would have just been able to make a sorbet, while Jacques Guerlain turned it into a masterpiece!"
see more
