Patchouli (Indonesia) perfume ingredient

Production

Native to Indonesia and Malaysia, the ever-popular patchouli plant is a perennial bush that grows to a height of 1 meter. Its iconically fragrant, purple petals decorate its tall, green stems. The fragrance of patchouli is captured through a process of steam distillation whereby dry leaves are distilled to obtain essential oil, which is then refined for several months. This process is crucial to ensure the essence loses its bitterness—resulting in the woody, smooth scent we know and love.

Photo by courtesy of Gregoire Mahler © and LMRNaturals (IFF)

History

Patchouli made its first debut on the European fragrance stage during the Victorian era, with dried patchouli being added to scented sachets, potpourris and its essence being mixed in fragrances. Patchouli enjoyed a brief stint as the symbolic scent of excess, self-indulgence and decadent hedonism. Women who enjoyed patchouli were often fascinated with the likes of Baudelaire and Huysmans—who wrote with an exoticism inherited from the Romantics, and who were known for their influence in the French Decadent movement. Rehabilitated by the carefree hippies of the 60s, patchouli was then reformed again as an influential scent during the “flower power” movement, as its scent relaxes and soothes both body and mind.

Photo by courtesy of Gregoire Mahler © and LMRNaturals (IFF)

Did you know...

The penetratingly woody, earthy and heady characteristics of patchouli contributed to its success during the 60s. However, the verdict is out as to whether it was also a convenient disguise to cover the potent scent of marijuana. The mystical prowess of patchouli extends well beyond the confines of perfumery: it is known to have anti-infectious, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, decongestant, circulatory, invigorating and aphrodisiac properties. In aromatherapy, patchouli is said to regenerate skin cells, while in cosmetics, it is thought to be a revitalizing ingredient in body and skincare.

Most combined ingredients

Iconic Fragrance

Reminiscence

PATCHOULI

Patchouli has gone through the decades by bending to fashions and desires. Being one of the ingredients of the fragrance Chypre de Paris, created by Guerlain in 1909, it is essential in all the perfumes of this new chypre family. It took pride of place, thanks to Reminiscence, in 1970, before the beginnings of niche perfumery. The designer hands patchouli leaves, found in London, to perfumer Henri Sozio: “I want a perfume that smells like this! ". This elegant woody fragrance was quickly adopted by a whole post-68 generation, and remains a bestseller of the brand to this day.