An excellent fixative, the distinctly vanilla-like facets of coumarin are often blended as bottom notes in a plethora of ambery and fougère accords. A synthetic molecule, coumarin resembles the deliciously sweet scent of tonka bean, with its distinctly warm notes of caramelized almonds and freshly cut hay.
Originally extracted from tonka beans, coumarin was collected through an elaborate process that involved drying harvested beans before soaking them in rum for twelve to twenty-four hours and then drying again. Through this process, crystals of coumarin would develop on the surface of the tonka beans. However, this proved to be a rather costly process. Nowadays, coumarin is easily reproduced synthetically.
Discovered in 1868 by English chemist William H. Perkin, coumarin was one of the first synthetic aromas ever produced. A few years later, in 1882, Paul Parquet used the synthetic molecule to create “Fougère Royale”, a fragrance by Houbigant (that became H for men), then Aimé Guerlain used it for “Jicky de Guerlain” in 1889. The use of the ingredient was a turning point in the history of synthetic fragrances and aromas, irrevocably shaking up the perfume industry and lighting the way for synthetic notes to come.
Paul Parquet first used coumarin in 1882 in his creation: Fougère Royale. The success was immense and he thus invented a new olfactory family: Fougère, by combining coumarin with lavender, geranium, oakmoss and bergamot.
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