Aldehydes amplify the fragrant harmony of an olfactory experience. Often associated with floral notes, aldehydes work to reveal the nuances of each scent for a deeper, fuller, elevated fragrance.
Aldehydes can be sourced from the extracts of rose and citrus fruits, but in minute quantities. As a result, synthetic aldehydes are created.
The term "aldehyde" is a unique combination of the words "alcohol" and "dehydrogenatus," originally coined by chemist Auguste George Darzens. A Russian-born French organic chemist, Darzens first discovered aldehydes in 1903 when he synthesized C-12 Mna. Later, Blaise isolated aldehydes C8, C9, C10, C11 and C12 lauric. At first, aldehydes were left largely untouched by the perfume industry, who found the new scents to be rather lacking. The odd-numbered aldehydes (C9 and C11) give a fragrance similar to the burnt wax of an extinguished candle, despite being sourced from rose essence. The even-numbered aldehydes fare no better, which, despite being sourced from citrus-fruit grind and having an arguably clear and bright scent, were considered "metallic" at the time. And yet, the métier of Darzens’ aldehydes would be be revealed when it was discovered that the chemical compound could actually enhancethe other scented ingredients of a perfume. When subtly used and skilfully dosed, the synthetic molecules have the ability to reveal and enhance a fragrance.
While aldehydes are naturally present in rose and citrus fruit extracts, the quantities are rather lacking. To bolster supply, synthetic aldehydes are created in the laboratory. While aldehydes C12 and C-12 Mna offer very similar fragrances, they are unmistakably different to the trained nose of a perfume connoisseur. Evoking a bouquet of floral accents, waxy or soapy notes, and an amalgamation of ginger, citrus fruit and laurel fragrance, both variations conjure notes typical of aldehydes. The iconic and dashingly chic Chanel No.5—first developed in 1921—was the lovechild of a unique combination: a dash of aldehyde and a rich bouquet of vibrant florals.
"A woman's perfume, with a woman's scent... A perfume unlike any have ever made." This was Gabrielle Chanel's request to Ernest Beaux. The perfumer worked on new molecules: aldehydes, very difficult to dose, which amplify the floral character, and give diffusion to the entire structure of the perfume. Chanel N ° 5 is the first of a great line of floral aldehydic fragrances.
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