How to recognise the olfactory notes of a perfume?

Although the world of perfume is evocative and connects us with our emotions, the process of creating a fragrance is a mixture of science and alchemy.

It may sound incredible, but a perfume can be made up of more than two hundred ingredients, each with its own function. Getting the balance right is essential to achieve a good result. When creating a new fragrance, perfumers position their different ingredients in a very specific way so that their volatility and tenacity can be perceived.

This way of constructing a perfume is called the olfactory pyramid and was established by the perfumer Jean Carles. Using the olfactory pyramid is a way of balancing the formula of a perfume, structuring it and helping it to evolve once it is applied. This division is made up of three types of notes: top, heart and base depending on the rate of evaporation of the ingredients from the lightest to the most persistent.

These are the lightest notes and are responsible for awakening the sense of smell. Despite their volatility, they are decisive when choosing a perfume, as they are the perfume's calling card. They are the notes that evaporate first, and are present during the first 15 minutes after applying the perfume. Usually, they are fresh, aromatic, green or citrus notes, which capture the attention of the nose.

These are intense notes that give the perfume its personality. They tend to last about 3 hours on the skin and are full of nuances that give personality to the perfume. They are usually floral, powdery and fruity notes. It is the most complex level of the pyramid at the moment of the perfume's elaboration since it must make the perfume memorable.

They give depth to the perfume and are the most tenacious notes, as they are responsible for closing the perfume. They start to be perceived after the first two hours and bring intensity to the final scent. They are for example spicy, woody notes, with musk, amber, leather or moss. The base notes ensure that the fragrance lasts, that even after a few days you can still smell the perfume on your clothes. Therefore, they are key to determining your loyalty to a fragrance.

Are you able to distinguish the different notes of your favourite perfume?