Perfumery is as much art as it is science, so the process of creating a perfume is always linked to a good dose of inspiration and creativity.
As you would expect, creating a perfume is a long and dedicated process that involves many people and where every little step of the process is of great importance, from the raw materials to the packaging.
The idea
The first step in the creation of a perfume is inspiration. This can come from a memory, an image, a song, or even an olfactory memory. This moment is key as it lays the foundations of the perfume we hope to achieve. This idea may come from the perfumer himself or from a creative team. In any case, a brief is elaborated, detailing not only how the perfume should be and its history, but also to whom it is addressed. In addition, it should detail which notes or ingredients are desired.
The nose
Once the idea is clear, the work of the perfumer, also known as the nose, begins. With the ingredients and notes decided, he has to think about how to structure and harmonize them. The perfumer then has two options, either to create the fragrance from scratch, or to start from one or several formulas and add ingredients to them. Great perfumers have their own olfactory library, with numerous formulas to achieve the desired accords. Whatever the option, the perfumer begins his creative process and designs the desired perfume.
At this point it is important to talk about the selection of raw materials. From natural ingredients, coming from different corners of the planet, to synthetic ingredients that will complete the formula. Raw materials are obtained through different processes, among which synthesis stands out, allowing the reproduction of aromas that cost a lot to obtain, that are very expensive or that do not exist in nature.
To reach the desired product, the perfumer makes several tests that will be weighed. The formula is the list of ingredients and the quantities of each one of them. At this point it is important to keep in mind the olfactory pyramid to be able to order the notes and ingredients according to their volatility and importance.
Raw materials are obtained through different processes, among which synthesis stands out, allowing the reproduction of aromas that cost a lot to obtain, that are very expensive or that do not exist in nature.
The tests
Different tests should be carried out to see if the result is as expected, always diluting them in ethanol. These are usually smelled on mouillettes (blotting paper) and on the skin to evaluate diffusion and duration.
After these tests, the necessary changes are made and the formula is perfected until the final perfume and the concentrate are finalised.
Maturation and dilution in alcohol
When the desired perfume concentrate is finally obtained, it is matured so that all the notes blend harmoniously. The concentrate is stored for several weeks at a temperature of about 13°C to allow the different ingredients to interact.
After these weeks, the perfume concentrate is mixed with ethyl alcohol. This is a liquid that does not distort the fragrance of the concentrate and will be present in the final perfume (the percentage, between 70 and 95%, depends on the desired product: eau de toilette, eau de parfum or perfume). The alcohol allows the raw materials of the perfume to be released and contributes to a better preservation of the fragrance.
Then, the perfume is left to macerate so that the mixture is homogeneous, and the different ingredients and textures are unified. For this purpose, the perfume is stored for several weeks. Then the mixture is filtered at very low temperatures (less than 5 ºC) .
And finally, we have the perfume! It is a long and costly process. As painstaking as it is and as much dedication as it requires, it is an art form like few others. Creating a perfume is a way to materialize dreams. Who said it was an easy task?