Falling in love with Chypre perfumes again

What notes define Chypre perfumes? The Chypre family is considered a classic fragrance category, characterised by a complex and sophisticated blend of citrus, floral, woody, and oakmoss notes.

Citrus notes: historically bergamot, but also lemon and orange, which add freshness and brightness.
Floral notes: usually rose, jasmine and geranium, which provide femininity and softness.
Woody notes: patchouli, often supported by sandalwood or vetiver, adding depth and sophistication.
Oakmoss: a key ingredient giving Chypre perfumes their distinctive earthy, woody, and slightly damp sensation, evoking forests and untamed nature.

In recent years, there has been a revival of classic fragrances. Timeless and sophisticated styles have been rediscovered, and Chypre fragrances, with their richness and depth, connect with a sense of empowerment and elegance.
Perfumer Sonia Constant explains the type of woman she envisions wearing a Chypre scent like Musc Nude by Narciso Rodriguez, which she created: "I imagine a confident, sensual woman who appreciates the timeless elegance of a Chypre fragrance. She celebrates her natural beauty and wears Musc Nude for herself like a second skin, making it part of her identity."
Chypre perfumes explore dry, earthy, and uncommon nuances, attracting those who seek refined and unconventional fragrances.
Additionally, the undeniable appeal of vintage has made a strong comeback. The nostalgia for classic perfumes resonates strongly, especially as luxury and niche perfume brands aim to recapture the grandeur of haute perfumery with a modern interpretation.

Throughout history, Chypre scents have reemerged during times when society sought powerful perfumes. For example, after their debut in 1917 with Coty, Chypres regained popularity in the 1940s, following World War II, when people desired the resurgence of life through intensely green fragrances. Examples include Femme by Rochas and Ma Griffe by Carven.
Later, in the 1980s, Chypre fragrances made a comeback, reflecting a time when women were entering the business world and sought perfumes that emphasised their presence. Aromatics Elixir by Clinique is an example of an intense floral Chypre.
Today, after a global pandemic and amidst new geopolitical uncertainties, society is eager to experiment with fragrances and fully embrace their sensory experience.
Fragrance enthusiasts, increasingly knowledgeable about scent profiles, seek to stand out–and the Chypre family, with its bold yet grandiose nuances, is undoubtedly captivating.

The inspiration for Chypre perfumes comes from the Mediterranean island of Cyprus. Its temperate forests are imbued with the scent of damp earth, wood, flowers, and the moss that grows on oaks.
However, this is a highly versatile olfactory family, with compositions ranging from classic structures to modern reinterpretations.


Among the classic Chypre structures, we find Tabac Blond by Caron, Mitsouko by Guerlain, and the first version of Miss Dior from 1947.
In the 2000s, new twists rejuvenated olfactory compositions with fruity notes in Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel (2001) and an enveloping Egyptian musk in Narciso Rodriguez For Her Eau de Toilette (2003).
Among the most recent launches, standout high perfumery proposals include Infiniment by Coty, Aristo Chypre and Or de Moi, the new women's fragrance Barénia by Hermès, Good Girl Blush Elixir by Carolina Herrera, La Panthere Elixir by Cartier, Gris Dior Esprit de Parfum by Dior, and Armure Mara by Rabanne.
Although the latest reinterpretations of the Chypre family introduce softer, fruitier, and even gourmand notes, they all share the characteristic interplay of light and shadow: luminous, radiant accords in the opening and a deep, earthy, or mossy base.

While François Coty is credited with defining Chypre perfumes, this olfactory family has centuries of history. It is one of the oldest and most unique due to its legacy and symbolism.
To understand its importance in perfumery, we must go back to the Middle Ages when the island of Cyprus was a strategic hub for the trade of raw materials between East and West. Ingredients such as labdanum (resin extracted from rockrose) and oak moss were highly valued by merchants of the time.
During this period, perfumed leather gloves scented with oakmoss became popular, offering a distinctive fragrance aligned with the tastes of the high society of the era. Later, during the Renaissance, small ceramic birds known as "Chypre birds" gained popularity. These birds were infused with resins to perfume clothing or spaces. By the 19th century, Chypre became the court's favourite fragrance, used to scent their wigs with this essence.

Its timeless elegance inspired Christine Nagel to create the first Chypre fragrance for Hermès, Barénia, a perfume that only reveals its true character when it comes into contact with the skin. This unique quality is what makes this olfactory family magical, creating an addictive trail that only becomes sensual when it blends with the skin.
Today, Chypre perfumes have adapted to consumer preferences and new regulations ensuring formula safety. While some of its original components (such as oak moss) are restricted in modern perfumery, perfumers have developed alternatives to preserve the essence of the Chypre family. New fragrances continue to explore the combination of freshness and depth that defines Chypres, proving that, after centuries, this olfactory family remains as relevant and captivating as ever.