LEATHER

Type
Natural raw material
Parts used
Glands
Extraction method
Solvent extraction or alcoholic tincture

Animal, pervasive, wet animal fur, leather, smoky, tar.

Pervasive, animal and intensely smoky, castoreum seduces with its divine fixative qualities—blending into prestige perfumes and enhancing chypre, ambery, leather, amber and woody notes. Its powerful, fixative qualities are revered for their resistance to evaporation: tying smooth, deep facets to fragrances with an unmatched longevity. Its leathery facets evokes deep, smoky nuances, with some subtle hints lending toward fruity notes of plum or dried fruits.

Production

Typically replaced by synthetic compositions today, castoreum has historically been sourced from beavers across North America and Russia. The remarkable fixative is actually a secretion stored in the glands (or pouches) of both male and female beavers, and is situated between the hind legs. Beavers naturally produce the oily substance as a sort of waterproof coating that protects their fur while also allowing them to mark their territory. To extract the coveted substance, the pouch is processed with volatile solvents to obtain resinoids and absolutes.
Like many other natural ingredients, the sensual characteristics of castoreum act as a natural aphrodisiac—enticing its wearers with an unmatched warmth and complexity. It is also a relaxant with natural antispasmodic properties.

Some fragrances related to the ingredient

Serge Lutens | Palais Royal

CUIR MAURESQUE

LEATHER / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
LEATHER / CITRUS
Serge Lutens | Palais Royal

BOXEUSES

LEATHER / CITRUS
Serge Lutens | Gratte-Ciel

SERGE NOIRE

LEATHER / WOODY
Comme des Garçons | Olfactory Library Series

SERIES 6 SYNTHETIC : TAR

LEATHER / WOODY
Francesca Bianchi

STICKY FINGERS

LEATHER / WOODY
WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Zoologist

HYRAX

WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Nishane Istanbul

UNUTAMAM

AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Serge Lutens | Palais Royal

IRIS SILVER MIST

FLORAL / ALDEHYDIC
Initio Parfums Privé

ABSOLUTE APHRODISIAC

AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / FLORAL
The Different Company

OSMANTHUS

FLORAL / CITRUS
Roja | Semi-Bespoke

SEMI-BESPOKE NO. 10

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / FLORAL
Evody | Galerie

COULEUR FAUVE

AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Serge Lutens | Palais Royal

UN BOIS SÉPIA

WOODY / GREEN
WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Nicolaï

OUD SUBLIME

WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Tom Ford | Private Blend Oud

OUD WOOD INTENSE

WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)

Musk

Bergamot

Sandalwood

Patchouli

Amber

Vanilla

Jasmine

Cedarwood

Rose

Mandarin

Vetiver

Lemon

Tonka Bean

Orange Blossom

Iris / Orris

Cardamom

Pink Pepper

Lavender

Grapefruit

Woody Notes

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