AMBERY (ORIENTAL)

Type
Natural raw material
Parts used
Seeds
Extraction method
Solvent extraction

Almond-flavoured, white glue, ‘Amaretto’, gourmand, balsamic, velvety, tobacco, smoky.

An intoxicatingly sweet scent of many facets: velvety, smoky, balsamic and whisperingly reminiscent of tobacco. Tonka bean is an excellent fixative, extending its milky-smooth facets to mix and meld notes in complex accords. A powerful, sensual scent that is often likened to vanilla.

Production

In the lush rainforests of Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil, tonka beans can be found within the fruit of the Brazilian tea tree (Dipteryx odorata). The seeds are harvested, dried and soaked in rum for twelve to twenty-four hours and then dried again—resulting in the formation of coumarin crystals. The tonka beans are then ground into a powder and—finally—the concrete and absolute are extracted using solvents.
Origin
Brazil, guyana, venezuela
Iconic perfume
Hermès
VÉTIVER TONKA

"Initially used in fragrances for women and - with time - in fragrances for men, the unrefined, rough, earthy scent of vetiver appealed to me. I had to appropriate and reinvent it. I wanted a tender, enveloping, warm vetiver. What it needed was tonka bean! With its caramel, praline and blonde tobacco notes, tonka bean draped vetiver in softness and gave its woody notes a mellow roundness." Jean-Claude Ellena, perfumer.

Hermès | Hermèssence

VÉTIVER TONKA

WOODY / CITRUS

History

Tonka beans were added to snuff tobacco for their characteristically strong scent. However, the use of coumarin in tobacco is nowadays prohibited in both France and the United States. Discovered in 1868, coumarin was one of the first aromatic synthetic products developed by English chemist William H. Perkin. A few years later, in 1882, Paul Parquet used this synthetic molecule to create “Fougère Royale,” a perfume by Houbigant, and then, in 1889, Aimé Guerlain used the same molecule to create “Jicky de Guerlain.” These fragrances marked a turning point in the history of perfumes and synthetic materials.
Tonka beans have an interesting side effect: they have diuretic and draining properties that help relieve swelling and water retention. As a result, tonka bean can often be found in products marketed for weight loss.

Some fragrances related to the ingredient

AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
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Laboratorio Olfattivo

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Drops by Toni Cabal | Gold

SOUL OF TONKA

AMBERY (ORIENTAL)

Musk

Bergamot

Sandalwood

Patchouli

Amber

Vanilla

Jasmine

Cedarwood

Rose

Mandarin

Vetiver

Lemon

Iris / Orris

Orange Blossom

Cardamom

Pink Pepper

Lavender

Grapefruit

Woody Notes

Leather

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