CHYPRE

Type
Natural raw material
Parts used
Moss
Extraction method
Solvent extraction

Moss, earthy-humus, woody, mushroom.

The oakmoss absolute is used in refined perfumery. As its note evokes the smell of forest and undergrowth, oakmoss is the key ingredient of the chypre accord. It gives substance, warmth and richness to fragrances.

Production

Authentic oakmoss derives from lichen, which grows on the trunks and branches of oak trees native to Europe and North America. The lichen is collected in Europe—most particularly in Macedonia and Bulgaria. The earthy fragrance is captured through a process of extraction with solvents and alcohol, and is mainly carried out in France. The scent of oakmoss is no singular story: rather, there are a number of nuanced scents, depending on the lichen used. Linchen derived from Moroccan cedar trees and French fir trees is particularly popular. However, these extracts are not as refined as true oakmoss, and are often blended.
Origin
Bulgaria, spain, france, portugal
Iconic perfume
Clinique
AROMATICS ELIXIR EAU DE TOILETTE

First modern chypre, very patchouli and floral rose, on a bewitching background of civet and oakmoss, its unequalled "sillage" inspired many perfumes. Unexpected for this cosmetic brand which wanted "A formula recognized for these specific effects on the mind and the body, which plays the role of a perfume, but goes much further."

CHYPRE / WOODY

History

Arguably one of the most revered trees of our collective history, the oak tree has captured the human imagination for millennia. In ancient Greek mythology, oak was the symbol of Zeus: a towering representation of strength and wisdom. Its imposing height made the tree more susceptible to the wrath of Zeus’ lightning bolts—inspiring whispers of awe, intrigue and fear.
Because of its dark colour, the use of oakmoss remains limited. However, there are many discoloured varieties, which can be used by perfumers for all sorts of applications.

Some fragrances related to the ingredient

Olfactive Studio

CHYPRE SHOT

CHYPRE
Zoologist

CIVET

CHYPRE
CHYPRE
Jean Couturier

CORIANDRE

CHYPRE / FLORAL
Mendittorosa | Odori d'Anima

ARCHETIPO

CHYPRE
CHYPRE / FLORAL
CHYPRE / FLORAL
Thierry Mugler | Les Exceptions

CHYPRISSIME

CHYPRE / FLORAL
Castle Forbes

FORBES OF FORBES

CHYPRE / FLORAL
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

SANTAL NOBLE

CHYPRE / FLORAL
Scents Of Arabia

LA MER

CHYPRE / FLORAL
CHYPRE / FLORAL
CHYPRE / FLORAL
CHYPRE / FLORAL
Estée Lauder

KNOWING

CHYPRE / FLORAL
Davidoff

CHAMPION

CHYPRE / CITRUS
Yves Saint Laurent

YVRESSE LÉGÈRE

CHYPRE / CITRUS
Jean-Michel Duriez

BLEU FRAMBOISE

CHYPRE / CITRUS
FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)

Musk

Bergamot

Sandalwood

Patchouli

Amber

Vanilla

Jasmine

Cedarwood

Rose

Mandarin

Vetiver

Lemon

Tonka Bean

Orange Blossom

Iris / Orris

Cardamom

Pink Pepper

Lavender

Grapefruit

Woody Notes

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