AMBERY (ORIENTAL)

Type
Natural raw material
Parts used
Gum-resin excreted by the tree
Extraction method
Solvent extraction

Balsamic, woody, vanilla-scented, soft, resinous, powdery, milky and spicy.

Benzoin offers distinctly rich scents of woody, sweet vanilla. Its layered composition unfolds in warm, honeyed facets not dissimilar to caramel, almond or freshly roasted coffee. Subtle floral notes awaken slight nuances of carnations in soft, wispy or even powdery tones. Benzoin is renowned for its qualities as a perfume fixative, providing a fullness and warmth to compositions with its round, buttery-smooth tones. Benzoin can most commonly be found in ambery or gourmand accords.

Production

Benzoin is acquired through a process of tree “tapping”, whereby the bark is deliberately damaged in order to extract the balsamic resin from trees of the genus Styrax. First, a harvester must bravely climb to the top of the tree and cut the bark several times on his descent to the ground. Once cut, the tree will “cry” precious tears of semi-liquid resin. A curated waiting process of six months ensures that the benzoin hardens. After careful cleaning by hand, the resin “tears” are cleaned and sorted before being extracted with volatile solvents.
Iconic perfume
Estée Lauder
YOUTH DEW

This fragrance, originally designed for a bath oil, has excited American women with its powerful spicy accord, clove and cinnamon, which enhances the floral heart and spices up the very persistent balsamic base of benzoin.

Estée Lauder

YOUTH DEW

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / SPICY

History

Alongside its decadently warm aroma, the qualities of benzoin have been celebrated throughout the centuries for their therapeutic healing abilities: balsamic resin has the unique ability to act as a styptic, slowing the bleeding of small wounds, among other useful medicinal purposes. Throughout the Middle Ages, benzoin would be added to an intricate collection of other scented delights and carried in the pomanders of society’s privileged.
The deliciously sweet and vanilla-esque aromas of benzoin have made the resin a popular ingredient in a myriad of sweets and beverages today, including Coca Cola and many vanilla or caramel flavored treats. Its antiseptic and medicinal qualities mean that benzoin is also a popular therapeutic ingredient to treat the likes of rheumatism, lumbago and even blood poisoning.

Some fragrances related to the ingredient

Maison Crivelli

AMBRE CHROMATIQUE

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / FLORAL
Tom Ford | Private Blend Atelier d'Orient

PLUM JAPONAIS

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / CITRUS
Alexander McQueen | McQueen Collection

AMBER GARDEN

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / FLORAL
Yves Rocher

SABLE FAUVE

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / FLORAL
Trudon Parfums

ELAE

FLORAL / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Matière Première

ENCENS SUAVE

WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
Matière Première

FALCON LEATHER

LEATHER / WOODY
Matière Première

SANTAL AUSTRAL

WOODY
Dries Van Noten

ROCK THE MYRRH

LEATHER / WOODY
Berdoues | Grands Cru

PÉNG LÁI

FLORAL / CITRUS
Jil Sander

SUN MEN PARFUM

LEATHER / CITRUS
Maison Crivelli

PATCHOULI MAGNETIK

WOODY / CITRUS
Carine Roitfeld

ORSON

AMBERY (ORIENTAL)
AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / CITRUS
Tuttotondo

TIRAMISÙ

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / GOURMAND
Carner Barcelona | Original Collection

EL BORN

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / CITRUS
Tom Ford | Private Blend Atelier d'Orient

RIVE D'AMBRE

AMBERY (ORIENTAL) / CITRUS
Dries Van Noten

JARDIN DE L'ORANGERIE

FLORAL / WOODY
Goldfield & Banks

DESERT ROSEWOOD

WOODY / AMBERY (ORIENTAL)

Musk

Bergamot

Sandalwood

Patchouli

Amber

Vanilla

Jasmine

Cedarwood

Rose

Mandarin

Vetiver

Lemon

Tonka Bean

Orange Blossom

Iris / Orris

Cardamom

Pink Pepper

Lavender

Grapefruit

Woody Notes

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